Book excerpt: A complete guide for everything you need to experience a full weekend in the Sonoma Valley, the Napa Valley's often underrated neighbor. It was here that winemaking first got its start. Come see why."We had the best time exploring Sonoma with this handy guidebook. We've used it two years in a row and found new listings each time."--Jerry C., Chattanooga=LODGINGS, variously priced=RESTAURANTS, both upmarket & those on a budget=SPAS. That's right, Napa doesn't have a chokehold on Spas=ATTRACTIONS and tours=Selected wineries chosen specially by Delaplaine, who produces his own wine from grapes partially selected from Sonoma.