Book excerpt: Whether you're a competent cook or have just caught the bug, Perfect has a place in every kitchen. Is there a foolproof way to poach an egg? What's the secret of perfect pastry? Could a glass of milk turn a good Bolognese into a great one? The Guardian's 'How to Make' food columnist Felicity Cloake is on a mission to find the perfect staple dishes - from spag bol to brownies to fish pie. Having rigorously tried and tested recipes from all the greats - including Elizabeth David, Delia Smith and Nigel Slater - Felicity has pulled together the best points from each to create the perfect version of 68 classic dishes. Never again will you have to rifle through countless different books to find the your perfect roast chicken recipe, mayonnaise method or that incredible tomato sauce - they're all here. 'Brilliant . . . finely honed culinary instincts, an open mind and a capacious cookbook collection . . . Miss Cloake has them all' Evening Standard