Book excerpt: No one has done more to make French cooking accessible to Americans than Richard Grausman. His culinary innovations and techniques -- golden souffles baked in just 10 minutes, a light and luscious mousse au chocolat that can be made as a cake, chocolate roll, souffle, or pudding -- transform the classics to fit our contemporary diet and schedule. When a step isn't crucial, he eliminates it. If something can be done in advance, he does it. Plus he's cut the amount of butter, cream, egg yolks, salt, and sugar for health-conscious recipes without compromising the essential nature of the dish. In more than 250 splendid recipes, Grausman presents grand cuisine for both gracious entertaining and the everyday meal with an unmistakable French flair. Book jacket.