Book excerpt: "Cheddar is the world's most ubiquitous and beloved cheese. More than that, cheddar holds a key to understanding our food politics and even our cultural identity. In 'Cheddar', Gordon Edgar (Cheesemonger) traces the unexplored history of cheddar, with both wry humor and an eye toward its future. Cheddar has something to tell us about this country: from the way people rally to certain types of cheddar but not others, to the gradual transformation of a once artisan cheese into big commodity blocks (and back again) and the effect that has had on rural communities. One of the first cheeses to be industrialized, cheddar's progression from farmstead wheels to machine-extruded singles mirrors that of our entire food system. The resurgence of traditional cheesemaking over the last few decades, in turn, speaks to ways that we're redefining how food is produced. Edgar also answers some key questions about cheddar. Is it the most popular cheese in the land? Did England invent it and America cheapen it? Is today's 40-pound block a precursor to Velveeta? You'll find these answers and more in 'Cheddar', a book as thought-provoking as it is entertaining and that reveals what a familiar food has to tell us about ourselves and our culture"--Page 4 of cover.