Book excerpt: Two decades alter the civil war and genocide, Rwanda has flot only recovered but is thriving. s Explore the rapidly modernising capital Kigali, s swim on Lake Kivu's mountain-ringed shores, seek out chimpanzees in the misty forests t of Nyungwe, or venture into Akagera's wild s savannah in search of elephants, buffalos, hippos and newly re-introduced lions. Corne to Rwanda for the mountain gorillas, but leave enriched by this inspiring country and its warmly welcoming people. s Building on 15 years of research and now in its sixth edition, this is still the only Englishlanguage guidebook dedicated to Rwanda and remains an indispensable companion during a trip to the `Land of a Thousand Hills'.