Book excerpt: Manila is like halo-halo: everything Filipino mixed up in one big colorful bowl. It’s vibrant, overwhelming, overcrowded, and yes, a bit smelly. Many visitors skip Manila on their way to the beaches, or they never leave their Manila hotel room or favorite mall. With this guide book, you can have a blast in the real Manila, far beyond where tourists usually tread. Every recommendation has a QR code and Google Maps link, so it’s easy to navigate. I'll show you how to get local mobile data service, and I’ll make sure you don’t get scammed by taxis. A ride around Manila costs less than $5. In central Manila, Intramuros is the old walled city, previously open only to the Spanish colonialists. The’s a fort, a cathedral, and the remains of a moat. We’ll climb up to a rooftop view, find a hidden cafe that has amazing churros, and learn why the “dirty” ice cream isn’t so dirty. Yes, there’s a huge mall near Manila Bay, but did you know there’s a local seaside promenade there? There’s a rooftop cafe next to the beach, a classic rock bar, and a boat tour that costs $3. I’ve never seen any foreigners there. Nearby, on the water, there’s a seafood market where they’ll cook your purchases for you to eat right there. I’ve never seen any foreigners there either. BGC is Manila’s “global” development, and also the only place to get real Italian food in Manila. I’ll show you where. Besides the real Italian food, we’ll ride a fake Venetian gondola and check out a science museum. We’ll eat our way around the world’s oldest Chinatown and buy Filipino-Chinese pastries to take home. I’ll show you a hidden-away temple that’s upstairs in a building, a church with masses in Mandarin and Hokkien, and a street full of amazing Chinese foods that cost a dollar or two. Speaking of cheap food? I don’t recommend you eat on the street. But I’ll show you better alternatives to get your Filipino street food. And I have an entire chapter on balut — even the hot new balut trend, and where to find it. We’ll see indie rock shows, check out hipster art spaces, and eat Hokkaido toast, whatever that is. I list Manila hotels I personally recommend, and scams I personally warn you against. I’ve even got a bunch of warnings about bathrooms in the Philippines, and how to deal with bad customer service. And don’t be shy: if you want to meet and date Filipinas, yes, I cover that too. Experience the best of Manila, the local way. Mabuhay!