Book excerpt: When Neil Perry set out to open a steakhouse, it wasn't going to be just any steakhouse. It had to showcase not only Australia's best beef but also the best seafood, the best of everything. In his latest book, Neil shares the trials and tribulations of opening the ultimate steakhouse, Rockpool Bar & Grill, first in Melbourne, then Sydney and Perth. This is a book about the life of a restaurant and all the people who contribute to it, from the graziers to the scallop divers to the oyster whisperers. Tales from the restaurant and from his producers intersperse Neil's collection of 150 recipes that bring his restaurant into your home. His advice on handling seafood, how to cook the perfect steak, how to build a wood-fired barbecue, plus his signature condiments, side dishes and desserts, make this an indispensable and inspirational kitchen companion.