Book excerpt: Wales is a country where small in beautiful, a cultural tradition rooted in the austerity and erudition of the Celtic saints, a tradition more confirmed than repudiated by the Reformation and is best appreciated by lovers of small things. The delights of Wales are understated and cumulative: small country churches rather than great city cathedrals, a labyrinth of byeays away form the few highways, details of vernacular achitecture rather than grand edifices - Edward I's thirteenth-century castles being the exception that proves the rule.