Book excerpt: Every good traveler plans his or her itinerary carefully to use time well and benefit as much as possible from the trip. I did not have an agenda, however. I wanted to travel Middle Eastern style, that is, with no prior planning. It would have been a nuisance to stick to a set timetable in a country that was, except for the language, entirely alien to me. I had decided to spend five weeks in Iran and had certain ideas as to what and whom I wanted to see, but my choices had to be la carte one bite at a time. I wanted to feel the pulse of the country by meeting and talking to as many people as possible. I knew that as a man traveling alone in a Moslem country I faced certain limitations. My quest had to be limited to interacting with men, with little exposure to women and their concerns.