Book excerpt: This is a story of unfaltering self-belief, immense hardship and struggle and hilariously wild times, as Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew sets off from Australia's Gold Coast, surfboard under his arm, to conquer the surfing world. From his spartan days of living on rice and oats while tackling the huge waves of Hawaii, to a glorious rollercoaster ride of parties, fast cars and perfect waves, Rabbit here recalls outrageous adventures shared with surfing's most famous figures including Nat Young, Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, Tom Carroll and Kelly Slater.