Book excerpt: Every New Orleanian knows Leah Chase's gumbo, but few realize that the Freedom Fighters gathered and strategized over bowls of that very dish. Or that Parkway's roast beef po-boy originated in a streetcar conductors' strike. In a town where Antoine's Oysters Rockefeller is still served up by the founder's great-great-grandson, discover the chefs and restaurateurs who kept their gas flames burning through the Great Depression and Hurricane Katrina. Author Alexandra Kennon weaves the classic offerings of Creole grande dames together with contemporary neighborhood staples for a guide through the Crescent City's culinary soul. From Brennan's Bananas Foster to Galatoire's Soufflé Potatoes, this collection also features a recipe from each restaurant, allowing readers to replicate iconic New Orleans cuisine at home.