Book excerpt: Looking for a travel guide that goes where other guides fear to tread? One that rides roughshod over ad-copy puffery to smartly deliver the real scoop on a destination's sites and attractions? One that dares to be honest, hip, and fun? Look no more. Frommer's Irreverent Travel Guides are wickedly irreverent, unabashedly honest, and downright hilarious, and provide an insider's perspective on which attractions are overrated tourist traps and which are the secret gems that locals love. You'll get the lowdown on restaurants, lodging, and shopping, and even find out what the locals think of you. We'll give you the lowdown on the Eternal City in our all-new Frommer's Irreverent Guide to Rome, with tips on where to find the most delicious pizza, how to rent a scooter so that you can zip around Rome like the locals, and where to snag that real Italian leather coat. Find out which market to visit for exotic spices and which to visit for fresh flowers, what Rome's ìtalking statuesî are, and which nightspot to hit for the hottest techno and house music. We'll let you know which sites to line up for (the treasures of the Vatican Museum, for one), and which ones are worth skipping. Frommer's Irreverent Guide to Rome delivers all the insights and invaluable travel tips you'll need for a visit to this vibrant city where the ancient and the modern rub elbows.