Book excerpt: After thirty years, two American Studies professors from Rutgers University are still looking for America on the New Jersey Turnpike-- that "ugly icon, '' America's "widest and most traveled'' road--that has found its way into the minds, if not the hearts, of artists and drivers alike. From the gray-flannel-suit diligence that built it, to the mixture of necessity, practicality and venality that maintains it, the New Jersey Turnpike endures as an enthralling though unlikely subject.