Book excerpt: Matt Kramer, longtime Wine Spectator columnist and author of the classic Making Sense series of wine books, now turns his palate toward Italy. Though Italian wine is the most popular wine among consumers, it remains puzzling to most wine lovers who wouldn't know a Barolo from a Barbaresco. Though shrouded in mystery, Italian wine has some of the most exciting and affordable varieties being produced today. Kramer is a trusted companion in the wine store, telling his readers the essentials: which wines can't be missed, and which are safe to skip. Organized like a “Shopper's Guide,” this unique book offers the lowdown on the most dazzling wines in every price range-their regions, traditions, and which foods to match with them. With Kramer's trademark wit and intelligence, here is an invaluable tool to finding treasures in the local wine shop.