Book excerpt: When Andrew F. Smith began researching the heritage of America's favorite condiment, he uncovered the makings of a great story: exotic and mysterious beginnings, unusual and colorful characters, evil adulterators and contaminators, strong-willed commercial competitors, high-minded government regulators, and, finally, a relentless quest for a global market. From his large store of historical ketchup recipes, Smith offers a representative sampling of the appetizing, the intriguing, and the outlandish. Reflecting the diversity of the condiment's myriad incarnations, the volume includes recipes for more than 110 ketchup varieties made from such unexpected ingredients as apricots, beer, celery, cucumbers, lemons, liver, raspberries, and rum.