Book excerpt: Adam Yamey visited Yugoslavia frequently over a period of more than 20 years. He criss-crossed the country from north to south and east to west. During his travels, he stood in the footsteps of Archduke Ferdinand's assassin in Sarajevo and those of Emperor Diocletian in Split, ate Chinese food in Novi Sad and offal at Rtanj, and also played Scrabble with Yugoslavs all over Serbia. In this profusely illustrated, trail of memories, the author describes the friendships that he made with Yugoslavs all over the country, and how these led to his deeper understanding of, and love for their country. As the years passed, the author began noticing small things, which made little sense at the time, but later turned out to be portentous. These were early signs of the troubles that were to lead to the disintegration of Yugoslavia soon after the author's last visit to the country in 1990. Join the author in the exploration of a country that no longer exists.