Book excerpt: Everyone knows the feeling of relief associated with watching "the big city" disappear behind you in the rear view mirror ... and the anticipation that can grip you as you head for a serene rural countryside. Nowhere are these sensations more strongly felt than they are as you head north out of Greater Los Angeles on scenic US 101 toward the sandy beaches, golden hills and verdant fields of flowers and vineyards along the coast toward San Simeon. Concentrating on the highway is increasingly difficult as you are constantly distracted by the sandy, sun-drenched beaches, the surf pounding.