Book excerpt: The clean air, smelling of spruce and moss in the summer and of newly fallen snow in winter, is unforgettable in Sweden. Written by a full-time resident, this is the definitive guide to Stockholm and the beautiful archipelago close by. There are cities we visit for their stunning beauty, others for their cultural offerings, and still others for their cuisine and fashionable bars. And then there is Stockholm, a striking, vibrant city with historic charm situated where lake Mnlaren begins to mix with the Baltic Sea. Its waters are so clean that you can go swimming or fishing anywhere, even in the heart of city. This beautiful city is spread out over 14 islands that are tied together with a filigree of deep blue waterways, artsy tunnels, pedestrian-friendly bridges and emerald-green park land. There is a fascinating mix of architectural styles, ranging from medieval, to Renaissance and fin de si cle pomp OCo in shades of yellow and burnt ochre, with soft greens and every hue of brown OCo and finally to an almost brutal modernism. In this 750-year-old city, high-rise buildings made of glass and concrete share the skyline with historic ornate towers, turrets, church spires and patina rooftops, all in a workable blend. Today's multi-ethnic Stockholm boasts 70 museums, 100 art galleries, over 100 slott (castles, palaces and manor houses). There are some 1,500 restaurants, many of which are run by award-winning chefs and, for a city with a relatively short summer season, an amazing number of establishments with outdoor seating. If this is not enough to entice visitors, there is an added attraction: the unique and amazingly beautiful archipelago, consisting of 24,000 islands and islets (called skerrets) only 25 minutes from the city center. One third of Stockholm is water, with Gamla Stan as a divider between Lake Mnlaren and Lake SaltsjAn, which leads out to the archipelago and the Baltic Sea. The narrow waterways in between the small and large islands are perfect for leisurely paddling a rented kayak or canoe. And for a unique fishing expedition, just place yourself on a pretty city bridge, fishing pole in hand, and look down into the clear, sparkling and pollution-free city waters. Fishing has been allowed here since the 15th century and today, in a most unusual fishing environment, perch, pike, trout, salmon and some additional 25 varieties of fish are thriving. Art, culture, folklore, shopping, walks, water sports and more. Each book offers an ideal mix of practical travel info along with activities. And the fun is for everyone, no matter what their age or ability. Comprehensive background information - history, culture, geography and climate - gives you a solid knowledge of each destination and its people. Regional chapters take you on an introductory tour, with stops at museums, historic sites and local attractions. Places to stay and eat; transportation to, from and around your destination; practical concerns; tourism contacts - it's all here! Detailed regional and town maps feature walking and driving tours. Then come the adventures - fishing, canoeing, hiking, rafting, llama trips and more. Never galloped along a beach on horseback, trekked up a mountain, explored ancient sites? Adventure Guides include extensive lists of recommended outfitters, with all contact details - e-mail, website, phone number and location."