Book excerpt: “A brasserie is where the pleasure of the eye is reunited with the pleasures of the table.” In the sparkling brasseries of Paris, waiters in traditional long white aprons balance overflowing trays as they weave their way through beautiful Art Deco and Art Nouveau dining rooms with stained glass windows, romantic femmes-fleurs murals, glistening mirrors. The traditional menu—a lighter version of the pricier dishes served in “real” restaurants—includes choucroute, steak-frites, towering fresh seafood platters, and soups from bouillabaise to onion. “Brasseries rustle with all that makes Parisian life Parisian,” writes the author in this charming guide, first published in France, which will lead travelers to the best of these beloved institutions.