Book excerpt: The Rough Guide to Syria is the essential guide to this compact but culturally rich Middle Eastern country. Features include: Thorough accounts of all the monuments, from the ancient remains at Palmyra and Ugarit to stately mosques and hilltop crusader castles. Practical advice on shopping in the souks of Damascus and Aleppo and exploring the desert plains. Informed guidance on how to travel independently, and where to eat and sleep, in every price range. Detailed background on the country's history, culture, architecture and politics.