Book excerpt: Most tourists in Thailand clutch their Lonely Planet guides and follow a well-worn path: a quick stop in Bangkok, trekking outside of Chiang Mai, cocktails on the beach in Phuket. They see so little; they miss so much. To Thailand With Love tells where to eat cobra salad, where to find ghosts in Ayutthaya, where to spend an evening among fireflies, where to meet sea gypsies or hear the songs of gibbons, where to spend a day on a rice farm, where to learn to make paper from elephant dung. Add to this shopping tips, restaurant recommendations, secret sanctuaries provided by expats and frequent visitors—and an unforgettable trip is guaranteed.