Book excerpt: Considered by many to be the most famous island beach in the world, two-mile-long Waikiki Beach (which means "spouting waters") wasn't always about sun, sand and surf. In Polynesian times, much of Waikiki was off-limits to everyone but chiefs, who had homes here along with taro patches and fishponds. The waters of Waikiki are kept calm by a sheltering reef about a half-mile offshore. This same reef is the one that creates the long waves that have attracted surfers to Waikiki for decades. If you're coming to O'ahu to shop, Waikiki is where you'll want to start - it's a shopper's heaven with seemingly endless lanes of shops and boutiques. It is impossible to be bored in Waikiki! Athletes will find the jogging trails and gentle beach waves a refreshing workout, while shoppers will find themselves in a retail heaven, from high-end shops to bargain basements. There are countless activities for kids and their parents and romantic dining and drinking spots where couples can relax and embrace the open-air atmosphere. Walking down the busy Waikiki avenues, you'll see many street entertainers that always seem to have an attentive crowd. The two-mile Waikiki Beach stretch is home to more than 31,000 rooms in over 100 hotels. Accommodations range from bare-bones bungalows to family fantasy resorts and heavenly honeymoon hideaways. This guide describes a wide variety of the places to stay, some new and fancy; others full of history and legends, and almost all shown in color photos. It is the most thorough guide to Waikiki available, with candid hotel and restaurant reviews based on personal inspections. Our author lives in Oahu. She has hiked the trails, taken the boats, scuba'd the reefs, dined in the restaurants, visited all the resorts, snorkeled the coastline, explored the hidden waterfalls and she shares all of her knowledge. This guide is drawn from our larger guide to Oahu and focuses on the most popular attraction of all - Waikiki.