Book excerpt: The Amalfi Coast is one of Italy's magical spots: a sun-drenched land that looks like a glamorous film-set, it is bursting with lemon trees, breathtaking scenery, and food fit for a king. Join Katie Caldesi and her husband, Giancarlo, as they tackle the daring driving, precariously perched restaurants and hidden back alleys in search of the food that defines the area.